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NEWS FROM THE LINEAPELLE96 FAIR


 LEATHER

  • In general, trends are divided between a reconsideration of basics with soft and unstructured handle, and a soft vintage that brings us back to the natural characteristics of leather.
  • A lot of interest in softness and quality.
  • A return to the most classic materials, finishes are more or less sporty. Innovative colours ideal for the world of sneakers.
  • Crumpled glossy materials.
  • Combinations of glossy and matt.
  • The trend is towards gloss, although this is combined with matt items using the same colours and processes.
  • At the same time there are plenty of ideas related to new finishing technologies:
    • embossing on various thicknesses of leather;
    • all kinds of pleated finishes;
    • dégradé effects, both shading and in two-colour;
    • stretch and strategic bonding with materials that support and provide comfort.
  • Touches of light with retro-reflective materials, laminates, thermo-shimmer, and fluorescents.
  • Great demand for leather printed with animalier designs, crocodile and snakeskin, always pursuing innovation.
  • New animalier prints with different textures, embossed metallic prints, sometimes with contrasting neon colours.
  • Metallized and coloured laminates.
  • Research into three-dimensional effects on leather:
    • with embossed bonding;
    • with scale effects where the flesh side contrasts with the grain side;
    • pleated with a film applied to the surface that emphasises the 3D effect.
  • A variety of screen printing styles: watery and irregular, for example, evoking nature.
  • Coloured reptile that references African and tribal designs.
  • Prints on embossed leather.
  • Tie-dye style printing.
  • Lasering.
  • Naplack.
  • Crack effects.
  • Whitening effects.

 

TEXTILES

  • A season of natural textiles, even designers who are not normally identified with this look have created samples with jacquard finishes in natural tones and fibres.
  • Very rustic cottons, raffia, and jute become the base for more striking processes, from stripes and oversize diagonals, to contrasting two-colour effects, large monochrome floral embroideries with sequins, and weaving with transparent PVC strips.
  • Natural folk and natural + black or natural + colour weaves were popular, as were knits on rustic fibres, Africa inspiration for macro and micro-geometries and stylized floral motifs in two or three colours.
  • Beautiful jacquards with a slightly vintage, floral or geometric ethnic taste, or with paisley motifs.
  • A lot of interest in transparencies: lots of samples of transparent and neon P.U.s, either simple, with micro-perforations or decorated with coloured polka dots. Embroidery on synthetic tulle, P.U.s tie-dye printed, or with multicolour hologram prints.
  • Madras prints in brighter tones on sporty meshes and stripes that alternate between transparent and matt (the matt stripe can be customized with repetitions of the logo).
  • There were also beautiful PVCs with imprecise silicone drops, like splatters, as well as white paisley thread prints on transparencies.
  • New materials for inclusions, such as seeds in silicon.
  • Always in great demand were technical fabrics, stretch fabrics, small three-dimensional jacquards on polyester and nylon, a range of rip-stops, going from the lightest shades to neon.
  • Full-bodied technical nets, also printed, doubled, and embroidered like lace.
  • Lots of animalier in many varieties, from the most traditional monochrome jacquards, to punk looks with insertions of neon lurex threads, zebra embossing on technical materials, speckled finishes on denim, white snake prints on white background with glossy effects, and shimmering sequins that reveal the speckled prints underneath.
  • Florals are often taches of colour or brushstrokes, also for jacquards, or bolder looks for denim, with glossy finishes, marked whitening, black striped flock prints.
  • Lots of ideas for logos, in large, broken-up all-over prints, in stripes, diagonals or in checks.
  • Lineapelle visitors were looking for new ideas, including the most daring, such as polyurethane films on newspaper, dense coloured silicone marks on fishing nets, swollen inks on technical meshes, Sangallo embroidery on transparent nylons, and flock paisley designs stamped in white on white mesh.

 

SMALL PARTS

  • Details were popular when they were refined or in sophisticated finishes, made from assemblages of wood, transparent Plexiglas and coloured resins.
  • Studs come with new shapes, using different materials and special finishes, or mix different shapes and colours to create striking figurative designs.
  • There were beautiful covered hooks and buckles, in reptile or wrapped with sporty cords, or decorated with vegetable fibres.
  • Chains were large, traditional galvanics were accompanied by darker matt finishes, as well as striking colour interventions.
  • Beautiful chains with oversized rhinestones welded to the links.
  • Beautiful double face with strongly contrasting colours and patterns on ribbons and elastics.
  • Room for invention, such as extra large fringes made with metal chains, PVC strips and cotton laces.
  • Beautiful black and white Afro shoulder straps made by weaving climbing cord and leather cord with neon-coloured interventions.
  • Complex processes, overprinted threading and studs, and weaves decorated with rhinestones, stones and prints were all in demand. Details like neon points of colour were popular.
  • There was a lot of Interest in transparent coloured Plexiglas heels, also with inserts in different materials for more geometric, three-dimensional heels, some with mirror finishes, or decorated with floral glazes and rhinestones.
  • We also saw heels and wedges wrapped with natural fibres in neutral shades.
  • There is a demand for increasingly higher quality for screen printing, galvanizing and finishings.
  • Soles are exploring new materials and new combinations of materials.